The Complete Beginner's Guide to Starting and Caring for Locs in 2026 and Beyond

Introduction to Locs
Six Popular Methods for Starting Locs
Essential Supplies You'll Need
Understanding the Five Phases of Loc Development
How to Care for Starter Locs
Protecting Your Locs While You Sleep
Best Products for Healthy Locs
DIY Loc Spray Recipes
Common Mistakes That Damage Locs
FAQs About Starting Locs

Introduction to Starting Your Loc Journey {#introduction}

Thinking about starting locs? You're joining millions of people around the world who have embraced this beautiful, low-maintenance hairstyle that celebrates natural hair texture.

Locs (also called dreadlocks or locks) form when hair naturally tangles and meshes together over time. Unlike other protective styles that you take out after a few weeks, locs are a long-term commitment that can last for years or even a lifetime.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about starting locs, from choosing the right method to caring for them through each growth phase. Whether you have tight coils, loose curls, or waves, you can start and maintain healthy, beautiful locs.

Let's get started with the basics.

I’m sharing a few of my favorite products below (some links are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to try them — at no extra cost to you). Thank you for supporting Rooterica and this community of self-care and growth!

Six Popular Methods for Starting Locs

Choosing how to start your locs is one of the most important decisions you'll make. Each technique creates different results and works better for certain hair types. Here are the six most common starting methods.

1. Two Strand Twists Method

The two strand twist method involves sectioning your hair and twisting two pieces together from root to tip. This technique is popular because it's easy to do at home and creates a natural, textured look.

Hair types this works for: Best suited for type 3 and 4 hair (curly to kinky textures)

Installation time: 3 to 6 hours depending on how thick you want each loc

Pros: Simple for beginners, affordable, creates natural-looking locs

Cons: Takes several months before locs fully form

2. Comb Coils (Also Called Comb Twists)

Comb coils use a fine-toothed rattail comb to spiral each section of hair from the base to the ends. This creates tight, uniform coils that will eventually lock into cylindrical locs.

Hair types this works for: Works best on type 4 hair with tighter curl patterns

Installation time: 4 to 8 hours for a full head

Pros: Creates very neat, defined locs with consistent size

Cons: Time-consuming and requires patience

3. Interlocking Method

Interlocking (sometimes called latching) involves pulling the end of each loc through the root using a special tool or your fingers. This creates an immediate locked appearance.

Hair types this works for: All hair types and textures

Installation time: 6 to 10 hours initially, with maintenance every 4 to 6 weeks

Pros: Instant structure, locs form quickly, works on all hair types

Cons: Requires regular maintenance appointments, can be expensive

4. Freeform Locs (Organic Method)

The freeform method is the most natural approach. You simply stop combing your hair, wash it regularly, and let it loc on its own. You can gently separate sections to prevent one giant mat from forming.

Hair types this works for: All textures, though it works fastest on tighter curls

Installation time: No installation needed

Pros: Zero manipulation, completely natural look, free

Cons: Takes 12+ months to see real locs form, unpredictable results

5. Palm Rolling Method

Palm rolling involves applying a small amount of product to sections of hair and rolling them between your palms. This encourages the hair to tangle and begin forming locs.

Hair types this works for: Type 3 and 4 hair with medium to thick density

Installation time: 4 to 6 hours

Pros: Creates round, uniform locs

Cons: Requires consistent maintenance in the beginning

6. Braid Method (Sister Locs Style)

You can start locs from three-strand braids. Simply braid small sections of hair and leave them in. Over the next several months, the braids will unravel at the roots and begin to lock while the ends may stay braided or also begin to loc.

Hair types this works for: All hair types

Installation time: 4 to 8 hours depending on braid size

Pros: Easy transition if you already wear braids

Cons: Can take longer for locs to fully form

Which method should you choose? If you want to DIY at home, try two strand twists or comb coils. If you want professional-looking results right away, consider interlocking with a loctician. For the most natural journey, go with freeform.

Essential Supplies You'll Need to Start Locs {#supplies}

Before you begin your loc journey, gather these basic tools and products:

Required supplies:

Rattail comb (for creating clean parts)
Hair clips or sectioning bands (to organize your hair)
Spray bottle filled with water (keeps hair damp while working)
Large mirror or a friend to help with the back
Clarifying shampoo (removes buildup that prevents locking)
Light holding gel or styling cream (for certain methods)

Helpful but optional items:

Blow dryer or hooded dryer (speeds up drying time)
Satin or silk bonnet (protects locs overnight)
Interlocking tool or latch hook (if using the interlocking method)
Timer (to track your styling session)

Having everything ready before you start will make the process much smoother and faster.

Understanding the Five Phases of Loc Development {#phases}

Your locs will go through distinct stages as they mature. Knowing what to expect during each phase will help you stay patient and avoid damaging your hair.

Phase 1: Starter Locs (0 to 6 Months)

The starter phase is when your locs are brand new. Your hair has been twisted, coiled, or braided, but it hasn't actually locked yet. The style looks fresh and neat, but the locs are extremely fragile.

What happens during this phase: Your hair begins to tangle at the roots. The individual strands start to mesh together, but they can still easily unravel.

What your locs look like: Neat, uniform twists or coils with clear definition. They still look very similar to how they did right after installation.

Common challenges: Lots of frizz, especially after washing. Your locs might unravel partially. You'll be tempted to retwist constantly (try to resist).

Care tips for starter locs: Wash every 1 to 2 weeks with clarifying shampoo. Avoid heavy products. Sleep in a satin bonnet every night. Be very gentle when handling your hair.

Phase 2: Budding Phase (6 to 12 Months)

Welcome to the budding stage! This is when your locs start to actually lock. You'll notice bumps and swelling along each loc. This is totally normal and actually a good sign that your locs are forming properly.

What happens during this phase: The hair strands tangle more tightly together. The internal structure of each loc begins to develop.

What your locs look like: Puffy and swollen with visible bumps along the shaft. They look less neat than they did in the starter phase.

Common challenges: This phase can feel discouraging because your locs look messier. Many people give up during this stage because they don't like how their hair looks.

Care tips for budding locs: Keep washing regularly. Avoid over-manipulating your locs. Trust the process and remember that this awkward phase is temporary.

Phase 3: Teen Phase (12 to 18 Months)

Your locs are teenagers now! They're getting stronger and more mature, but they still have some growing to do. You'll notice them getting longer, but they might also shrink up as they tighten.

What happens during this phase: The locs continue to tighten and solidify. The core of each loc becomes more stable.

What your locs look like: More solid and cylindrical, though you might still see some thin spots or inconsistencies. They're starting to look like mature locs but aren't quite there yet.

Common challenges: Shrinkage is the biggest complaint during this phase. Your locs might look much shorter than your original hair length.

Care tips for teen locs: Maintain your regular washing schedule. Start experimenting with light styling. Continue protecting your locs at night.

Phase 4: Maturation Phase (18 to 24+ Months)

Now your locs are getting serious! They're becoming smooth, strong, and consistent in texture. The bumps from the budding phase start to smooth out.

What happens during this phase: The hair has fully locked from root to tip. The structure is solid and stable.

What your locs look like: Smooth, well-formed locs that hold their shape nicely. They look polished and healthy.

Common challenges: Much less frustration during this phase. Your main concern is keeping them moisturized and clean.

Care tips for mature locs: Continue regular washing and moisturizing. You can start trying more styles without worrying about damaging your locs.

Phase 5: Rooted Phase (24+ Months)

Congratulations! You've reached the final phase. Your locs are fully mature and can handle more manipulation and styling than ever before.

What happens during this phase: Locs are completely locked and stable. New growth at the roots will continue to lock naturally.

What your locs look like: Beautiful, mature locs with individual character. They hang nicely and have their own unique texture.

Common challenges: Very few problems at this stage. Just maintain healthy habits.

Care tips for rooted locs: Keep them clean and moisturized. Enjoy the freedom to style them however you like.

How to Care for Starter Locs (The First Six Months) {#starter-care}

The first six months are critical for developing strong, healthy locs. Here's exactly how to care for them during this important phase.

Washing Your Starter Locs

Many people believe you shouldn't wash new locs. This is completely false! Clean hair actually locs better than dirty hair. Buildup from oils, products, and dead skin cells can prevent your hair from locking properly.

How often to wash: Every 1 to 2 weeks is ideal. Some people can go longer, but never go more than 3 weeks without washing.

Best shampoo for starter locs: Use a clarifying shampoo that rinses clean without leaving residue. Design Essentials Shampoo is excellent for locs because it removes buildup without stripping your hair.

Step-by-step washing instructions:

Get your locs completely wet in the shower. Let the water run through them for at least a minute.
Apply shampoo directly to your scalp (not the length of your locs). Focus on the roots where oil and buildup accumulate.
Use your fingertips to massage your scalp in small circles. Be gentle and avoid rough scrubbing.
Let the shampoo suds run down the length of your locs as you rinse. This will clean the locs without you having to rub them.
Rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear. Any leftover shampoo can cause buildup.
Squeeze out excess water gently. Never wring or twist your locs.
Dry completely using a hooded dryer, blow dryer, or air drying in the sun. This is crucial!

Important drying tip: Never go to bed with wet or damp locs. They can develop mildew and create an unpleasant smell that's hard to get rid of.

Should You Condition Starter Locs?

Yes! Light conditioning keeps your hair healthy without preventing it from locking. The key is using the right product and technique.

Best conditioner for locs: Design Essentials Conditioner provides moisture without making your hair too soft or slippery.

How to condition locs properly:

After shampooing, apply a small amount of conditioner to the length of your locs. Skip the roots and focus on the mid-shaft to ends.
Let it sit for 3 to 5 minutes maximum.
Rinse extremely well. Make sure no conditioner residue remains.

How often to condition: Every other wash or once a month is usually enough for starter locs.

Daily Moisturizing Routine

Your locs need moisture every day, just like loose natural hair. Dry, brittle locs are prone to breakage.

Best moisturizers for daily use:

Cream of Nature Moisturizer is lightweight and absorbs quickly without leaving grease behind. It has a pleasant scent and works well on all hair textures.

Carol's Daughter Hair Milk is another favorite in the natural hair community. It's creamy but not heavy, and it smells amazing.

Aloe vera spray is refreshing and hydrating. It soothes itchy scalp and adds moisture without any heavy feel.

Rose water spray not only moisturizes but also smells beautiful. It's gentle enough to use multiple times a day.

How to moisturize your locs:

Morning routine: Spray your locs lightly with aloe or rose water. Apply a small amount of cream or hair milk to your scalp and the length of your locs. Focus on the ends, which tend to get driest.

Throughout the day: If your locs feel dry, spritz them with your spray. You can do this as often as needed.

Before bed: Apply a light layer of moisturizer to help your locs stay soft overnight.

Protecting Your Locs While You Sleep {#night-care}

Nighttime protection is one of the most important things you can do for your locs, especially during the starter phase.

Why Satin and Silk Matter

Cotton pillowcases absorb moisture from your hair. They also create friction that leads to frizz and breakage. Sleeping on cotton is like rubbing your locs with a rough towel all night long.

Satin and silk are smooth materials that don't absorb moisture. They allow your locs to glide across the surface without friction.

How to Protect Your Locs at Night

Option 1: Satin or silk bonnet This is the most popular method. Tuck all your locs inside the bonnet before bed. Make sure it's secure but not too tight.

Where to buy: Beauty supply stores, online retailers, or big box stores. They usually cost between $5 and $15.

Option 2: Satin or silk pillowcase If you don't like wearing a bonnet, use a satin or silk pillowcase instead. This works well for people with longer locs who find it hard to fit everything in a bonnet.

Option 3: Satin scarf Wrap your locs in a large satin scarf. This gives you more coverage than a bonnet and can be more comfortable for some people.

Pro tip: If you're a wild sleeper who tosses and turns, use both a bonnet and a satin pillowcase for double protection.

Avoiding High Tension Styles

Pulling your locs back tightly can cause traction alopecia. This is a type of hair loss that happens when constant tension damages your hair follicles.

Styles to avoid:

Super tight ponytails
Tight buns secured with multiple rubber bands
Styles that pull heavily on your edges or temples

Better alternatives:

Loose ponytails secured with soft scrunchies
Loose buns pinned with bobby pins
Letting your locs hang free

If a style feels uncomfortable or gives you a headache, it's too tight. Loosen it immediately.

Best Products for Healthy Locs Throughout Your Journey {#products}

Using the right products makes a huge difference in how your locs look and feel. Here are the top product recommendations for each category.

Cleansing Products

Design Essentials Shampoo

This clarifying shampoo is specifically designed to remove buildup without stripping your hair. It's gentle enough for regular use but strong enough to keep your scalp clean.

Why it works for locs: No heavy residue, removes product buildup, helps hair loc faster

Best for: All phases of locs, especially starter and budding phases

Conditioning Products

Design Essentials Conditioner

This lightweight conditioner adds moisture without making your locs too soft or preventing them from locking.

Why it works for locs: Balances moisture and cleanliness, rinses out completely, doesn't slow down the locking process

Best for: Starter through mature locs

Daily Moisturizers

Cream of Nature Moisturizer

A light cream that hydrates without greasiness. It absorbs quickly and leaves locs feeling soft.

Why it works for locs: Penetrates the hair shaft, doesn't cause buildup, pleasant scent

Best for: All phases, especially mature locs that need consistent moisture

Carol's Daughter Leave-In Spray

This cult favorite has been around for years. It's light and it works beautifully on locs.

Why it works for locs: Natural ingredients, great slip for styling, smells incredible

Best for: Teen phase through rooted locs

Refreshing Sprays

Aloe Vera Spray

Aloe vera is naturally hydrating and soothing. It's perfect for refreshing locs between washes.

Why it works for locs: Lightweight, soothing for itchy scalp, adds shine

Best for: All phases

Rose Water Spray

Rose water has been used for centuries for hair and skin. It's hydrating and has a beautiful, natural fragrance.

Why it works for locs: Balances pH, reduces frizz, smells amazing

Best for: All phases

Shop Recommended Products Here

DIY Loc Spray Recipes You Can Make at Home {#diy-recipes}

Store-bought sprays can be expensive. Making your own is easy, affordable, and lets you control exactly what goes on your hair.

Homemade Aloe Vera Spray

This refreshing spray hydrates your locs and soothes your scalp. Use it daily or whenever your locs feel dry.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons pure aloe vera gel (check that it doesn't contain alcohol, dyes, or fragrances)
1 cup distilled water (use distilled, not tap water)
5 drops essential oil of your choice (optional)
Clean spray bottle

Essential oil suggestions:

Lavender (calming, promotes hair growth)
Tea tree (antimicrobial, helps with scalp health)
Peppermint (stimulating, makes your scalp tingle)
Rosemary (strengthens hair, promotes growth)

Instructions:

Pour the distilled water into your spray bottle using a funnel if needed.
Add the aloe vera gel. Pure gel works best, but if yours is thick, you might need to mix it with a little water first to help it blend.
Add your essential oil drops if you're using them.
Close the bottle tightly and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. The aloe needs to be fully mixed into the water.
Shake well before each use since the aloe and water will separate over time.

Storage: Keep this spray in the refrigerator. It will last about 2 weeks. The cold spray also feels really nice on your scalp!

How to use: Spray directly on your locs and scalp whenever they feel dry. You can use this multiple times a day.

Homemade Rose Water Spray

This simple spray adds moisture and leaves your locs smelling like fresh roses. It's incredibly easy to make.

Ingredients:

1 cup distilled water
1/4 cup pure rose water (buy from grocery stores, health food stores, or online)
1 tablespoon aloe vera gel (optional, for extra moisture)
3 drops rose essential oil (optional, for stronger scent)
Clean spray bottle

Instructions:

Pour the distilled water into your spray bottle.
Add the rose water. Mix well by swirling the bottle.
If using aloe vera gel, add it now and shake vigorously to combine.
Add essential oil if you want a stronger rose scent.
Shake well before each use.

Storage: This spray can be kept at room temperature for up to 1 month, or in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

How to use: Spritz your locs anytime they need a refresh. This is especially nice to use before retwisting because it makes your hair easier to work with.

Money-saving tip: Both of these DIY sprays cost less than $5 to make and last for weeks. Compare that to $15 to $20 for store-bought sprays!

Common Mistakes That Can Damage Your Locs {#mistakes}

Avoid these common errors that can slow down your loc journey or even cause damage.

Mistake 1: Retwisting Too Often

Retwisting refers to twisting your new growth back into your locs. While it keeps your locs looking neat, doing it too often causes serious problems.

Why it's harmful:

Constant manipulation weakens your hair
Over-twisting causes thinning, especially at the roots
Your hair needs time to rest between styling sessions

How often you should really retwist: Every 4 to 6 weeks is sufficient for most people. Some people can go even longer. As your locs mature, you'll need to retwist less frequently.

Better approach: Embrace the natural texture and frizz. That's part of the loc journey!

Mistake 2: Using Heavy or Waxy Products

Wax, petroleum jelly, and thick creams might seem like they'll help your locs form faster. In reality, they cause buildup that's extremely difficult to remove.

Products to avoid:

Beeswax
Petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
Thick pomades
Heavy oils like castor oil in large amounts

Why they're problematic:

They trap dirt and lint inside your locs
They prevent your hair from breathing
They can cause mildew and unpleasant odors
They're nearly impossible to wash out completely

What to use instead: Light, water-based products that rinse clean. Stick to the moisturizers recommended in this guide.

Mistake 3: Not Washing Your Hair Enough

Some people think dirty hair locs faster. This isn't true. Buildup from oil, sweat, and dead skin cells actually prevents proper locking.

Problems caused by not washing:

Itchy, uncomfortable scalp
Unpleasant odors
Buildup that prevents locking
Dandruff and scalp irritation

Proper washing frequency: Every 1 to 2 weeks minimum. Your scalp produces oil daily, and that oil needs to be washed away.

Mistake 4: Comparing Your Locs to Others

Everyone's loc journey is completely unique. The method you used, your hair texture, your hair care routine, and even your genetics all affect how your locs develop.

Why comparison is harmful:

It creates unrealistic expectations
It makes you feel discouraged about your own progress
It might lead you to manipulate your locs too much trying to match someone else's look

Better mindset: Focus on keeping your locs healthy. Appreciate the unique character of your own locs.

Mistake 5: Skipping the Bonnet

Sleeping without protecting your locs causes unnecessary frizz and breakage. It's one of the easiest things to fix.

The damage you're causing:

Friction from your pillowcase creates frizz
Moisture is absorbed by cotton, leaving your locs dry
Locs can break from constant rubbing

Simple solution: Wear a satin or silk bonnet every single night. Make it part of your bedtime routine like brushing your teeth.

Mistake 6: Starting Locs with Damaged Hair

If your hair is severely damaged from chemical treatments, heat damage, or breakage, it's better to wait before starting locs.

Why this matters: Damaged hair won't loc properly. Weak spots can break during the locking process. You might end up with locs that are thin or uneven.

What to do instead: Spend a few months nursing your hair back to health. Deep condition regularly, avoid heat, and trim damaged ends. Once your hair is in better condition, start your locs.

Frequently Asked Questions About Starting Locs {#faqs}

How long does it take for locs to fully form?

Most locs take 12 to 18 months to fully mature, though some hair types can take up to 2 years. Tighter curl patterns tend to loc faster than looser textures.

Can I start locs on short hair?

Yes! You can start locs with as little as 2 to 3 inches of hair. Some methods like comb coils work well on very short hair.

Will my locs smell bad?

No, not if you wash them regularly. Clean locs don't smell. Only dirty locs or locs with buildup develop odors.

Can I undo my locs if I change my mind?

In the first few months, yes. Starter locs can usually be combed out, though it takes time and patience. Once locs are fully mature, removing them is very difficult and may require cutting your hair.

Do locs grow faster than loose natural hair?

No, locs don't grow faster. They might seem to grow faster because you're not combing or manipulating your hair as much, which means less breakage. Also, locs retain length because the hair can't shed normally.

Can I color or bleach my locs?

Yes, but wait until your locs are fully mature (at least 1 year old). Chemical treatments can weaken young locs. If you do color them, use a professional to minimize damage.

How do I deal with lint in my locs?

Prevent lint by wearing your bonnet at night and avoiding fuzzy materials. If you get lint stuck in your locs, try to pick it out while your locs are wet after shampooing.

Can I swim with locs?

Yes! Just wet your locs with clean water before swimming. This helps them absorb less chlorine or salt water. Always rinse and shampoo your locs after swimming.

Should I separate my locs?

During the first year, yes. Check your locs every week or two to make sure they're not growing together. Gently pull apart any locs that are trying to combine.

Can I workout and sweat with locs?

Absolutely! Locs are great for active lifestyles. Just make sure to wash them regularly if you sweat a lot.

Final Thoughts on Starting Your Loc Journey

Starting locs is a personal decision that requires commitment, patience, and proper care. This guide has given you all the fundamental knowledge you need to begin your journey with confidence.

Remember these key points:

Choose the right starting method based on your hair type and desired look. Two strand twists and comb coils are excellent beginner-friendly options.

Wash your locs regularly using clarifying shampoo like Design Essentials. Clean hair locs better than dirty hair.

Moisturize daily with light products like Cream of Nature or Carol's Daughter Hair Milk. Keep your locs hydrated without using heavy, waxy products.

Protect your locs at night with a satin or silk bonnet. This single habit prevents so much damage and frizz.

Be patient through the awkward phases. The budding phase can be frustrating, but it's a necessary part of the process.

Avoid over-manipulating your locs. Let them do their thing. Constant retwisting causes thinning and damage.

Your loc journey is unique to you. Some people's locs mature quickly, while others take more time. Focus on keeping your hair healthy rather than comparing your progress to others.

Take pictures throughout your journey. You'll love looking back at how much your locs have grown and changed.

Welcome to the loc community! Your journey is going to be incredible.

About This Guide

This comprehensive guide was created to help beginners understand every aspect of starting and maintaining locs. Whether you're in the research phase or ready to start today, use this information to make informed decisions about your natural hair journey.

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Last updated: October 2025